Jewelry Interview: Duncan Stevens
Duncan Stevens is one jeweler that is not afraid to take design to the next level. His work is often bold and daring, which of course has made him a darling of the high fashion world, and his pieces have been seen on catwalks in London and Johannesburg where he spends half of his time. Here he takes a break from his jet setting lifestyle to talk to The Jewelry Report about his work.
Where do you find inspiration?My inspiration comes unbidden to me. For instance, I will be sitting on a train, or on a plane, in a coffee shop and suddenly I see a piece of jewelry in my mind....and have to scramble to grab anything to hand to sketch on/with, whether that be note-pad, menu, napkins. You should see the pile of slips of paper, sketch books, notepads, menus, business card etc that are in my drawers with sketches on them! Inspiration can also come from the world around me....converting shapes into wearable pieces.
What is your favorite design, and is this your best seller?To date, the piece I am most in love with is my Crucifix Cascade made from titanium ball chain with sterling silver crucifixes all over it. It is a dramatic piece that many people want copies of, but to date, there were only 3 that were made.....and it will remain so.
How did you first get into jewelry art?I began in jewelry at the age of four or five....no metal-working, but learning about beading from African woman working for my mother in the afternoons, using horse hair, wire and clay, seed or glass beads.
What keeps you motivated?Motivation! Phew. Some days, especially of late during the recession, I have found it difficult to remain motivated. The contradiction here though is that instead of making less, I made more. This year alone I released 4 collections. It's almost as if to keep myself working, rather than slipping into ambivalence, and doing nothing, I do more. More importantly, I love jewelry....and that love has to be expressed.....that keeps me going.
Can you name another jewelry designer whose work you admire?Only one?? LOL Too many. Of course, I love Lalique (original Lalique) and a modern jeweler of surpassing mastery would have to be Kent Raible.
Do you find the process of experimentation frustrating or inspiring?Good question. Both. I find it very frustrating....as I am constantly playing with new materials...sometimes unsuccessfully. But also I find it satisfying to then take something that has failed, and turn it into something else which works.
Do you prefer doing retail or trade events?Neither. I prefer private appointments. I have done shopping parties (retail), exhibitions (both retail and trade), and I don't like how frantic it all feels. I like to be able to spend time with my clients....reading them....finding out what their needs are, their disposition....favourite colour....style.....that's a more intimate experience for me....and truly it is warranted....jewelry is such a personal thing.....and it's really important that a client is involved....and makes an informed choice about their purchase.
If you could have any jewelry super-power to help you what would it be?I would love to be able "replicate" myself. That way, I could have one of me making at all times, one person doing marketing and admin (UGH!), one to socialise and network and one researching. LOL.
You can view more of Duncan's work at his website, www.duncanstevens.com.
