There is something deeply organic about John S Brana's designs, yet this natural look hides the obvious talent that goes into color combining, choosing just the right gemstones, and perfecting techniques to enhance the underlying themes of each collection.  Here, he answers our top Jewelry Report designer questions...

My tree branch gemstone rings in the Muir Woods collection is my most favorite design.  As far as best sellers, it’s a close tie between the tree branch rings and the lily pad earrings.  The Pacific Heights ring collection has also done very well due to the statement jewelry / cocktail ring trend. 

I never thought about pursuing an artistic career, since I’ve always been very practical.  In the early 80’s, the “in” occupation was an investment banker or lawyer, so I chose this route and ended up pursuing a BA in Economics and an MBA in Finance at the University of Michigan.

I started working for Charles Schwab in 1997 as a financial consultant and by early 2000 was promoted three times to VP.  It was really like riding out the perfect storm in that we went through a rapid Dot Com boom followed by a 50% recession-induced staff downsizing.  It was a fast ride up to the crest and we even call it “Market Storm.”  After 911, we were throwing everything overboard just to survive.  I managed to survive three rounds of cuts, but in 2003, after experiencing the death of my father, I realized that I was missing that color and creativity from my childhood.  So in reviewing my priorities, I developed a new life mantra of “Do what you love and explore what you’re a passionate about."

One weekend in 2003 it all clicked when I recognized a familiar face, Carol Duvall, the queen of crafting on HGTV.  She demonstrated a relatively new Japanese product call PMC (Precious Metal Clay) which rekindled my passion for ceramics and design.  It really brought back all of my high school shop class training in sand casting an metal fabrication, so my curiosity got the best of me and I started to read about traditional jewelry casting and fabrication methods. I began by making simple silver bands, then started to incorporate various gemstones, and branched into fusing fine silver and copper necklaces and bracelets.

All of my collections are named after various areas and neighborhoods in San Francisco and Northern California.  Each collection is then derived from elements in nature, San Francisco history, or architectural elements.

Just continuing what I’m doing now.  Since each of my collections has a distinctive unique look, broadening offerings within existing collections will keep me busy for quite a long time.  I’m currently working on new flower rings in my Muir Woods collection (attached) that will come in plain copper, patinated copper, sterling silver, and 14K and 18K gold set with gemstones. 

It’s all about the design.  If you want your jewelry to sell it has to be wearable and easy to maintain.  In most cases my most simplest designs have proven to also be my best sellers.   Most of the technically challenging jewelry I’ve seen isn’t very practical in terms of durability, but it makes a great coffee table book.
 

Robert Lee Morris and Alexander Calder – I admire their use of non-traditional metals – brass, bronze, patinas and textures – hammered, smooth, chased and contemporary designs.

Very inspiring, especially when it comes to patinas and textures, and how the two influence each other.  I could tinker all day long! 

Hands down…trade.  Retail events have been quite challenging, given the current economic crisis.  I have found it much more worthwhile pursuing the retail crowd on the internet vs. the traditional model of retail shows and events.   My observations with retail events have been that attendees are out to be entertained and have a good time….not necessarily looking to spend money on accessories.  Although traffic has been waning at both retail and trade shows, buyers are more serious at closing business at trade events.  I leave the selling to the professionals (sales reps, boutiques, galleries, and jewelry stores), so that I can focus on what I do best…design.

Laser vision for fabrication.